Long Afternoons

Stories from a slower time

10 Department Stores Where the Grilled Cheese Cost Less Than Two Dollars

10 Department Stores Where the Grilled Cheese Cost Less Than Two Dollars

The mall is still there. The department store isn't.

You can drive to the same parking lot, walk through the same doors, and find yourself in a fitness center or a movie theater or a row of smaller shops selling things the anchor store used to sell better. The bones of the building are familiar. The thing that lived inside them is gone.

Department stores were the original everything store, and for a generation they were the gravitational center of American consumer life. The perfume counter when you walked in. The escalator that your grandmother held the handrail of. The lunch counter on the third floor where a grilled cheese and a Coke cost less than a dollar fifty. You knew the layout by heart because you'd been going since before you were tall enough to see over the counters.

Most of them closed between 1990 and 2010, some earlier. A few hung on longer. Here are ten that defined the category and the era.

1. Montgomery Ward

Montgomery Ward is arguably where American retail began, at least in its modern form. Founded in 1872 as a mail-order catalog, it opened physical stores in the early twentieth century and grew into a national chain that once competed directly with Sears on even terms. By midcentury, a Ward's store in your town was a serious anchor -- not glamorous, not budget, just solid. Hardware and appliances on one floor, clothing on another, toys in a dedicated section every kid knew by heart.

Ward's went bankrupt in 2000 and liquidated completely, closing 250 stores in 31 states. It was the first major national department store to simply cease to exist rather than get acquired. Some of those stores had been operating for seventy years. The clearance signs went up in January and by August the buildings were empty.

The catalog, which had once reached twenty million households, died too. The internet had made it redundant, and the stores that had replaced it didn't survive the competition either.

2. Caldor

Caldor ran the Northeast corridor from Connecticut down through the mid-Atlantic states for four decades, and if you grew up anywhere near a Caldor, you have opinions about it. It wasn't Kmart and it wasn't Sears. It was its own thing: a regional discount chain that knew its customer and served them without pretense.

It closed in 1999, filing for bankruptcy in 1995 and spending four years trying to work its way back out. Couldn't do it. Walmart had arrived in the same neighborhoods and Caldor's pricing advantage disappeared. Nearly 150 stores closed. The red-and-white sign came down. New England families who had shopped there for twenty years had no particular word for what they'd lost, because it was a discount store and you weren't supposed to feel anything about discount stores. They did anyway.

3. Ames Department Stores

Ames was Caldor's neighbor and rival throughout the same years, serving smaller cities and towns in the Northeast and Midwest where the bigger chains hadn't bothered to go. It ran from the late 1950s through 2002, when it liquidated after its second bankruptcy. At its peak it had 700 stores.

The towns where Ames was the only mid-range retail anchor in a fifteen-mile radius felt the closing differently than the cities did. In a small city, when Ames left, what replaced it was often nothing.

4. Bradlees

Bradlees was a New England and mid-Atlantic chain that closed in 2001 after two rounds of bankruptcy, the second one final. About 113 stores. The chain was a fixture for families who needed a department store without the prices of the department store -- name-brand items run through a discount structure that felt slightly off-brand in the right direction.

What Bradlees regulars remember, more than the merchandise, is the layout. The way the store was organized. The particular smell of the floor cleaner. The lunch counter, in the stores that still had one. Familiarity built over decades of regular shopping creates something real, and it leaves a genuine gap when it ends.

5. Hecht's

Hecht's was a Washington D.C. institution that spread across the mid-Atlantic and ran for over a century before being absorbed into Macy's in 2006. It wasn't exactly a discount store -- it ran mid-range to upper-mid, with a flagship in downtown D.C. that suited the city's sense of itself. When the Macy's conversion came, the stores reopened with identical merchandise and identical branding, indistinguishable from the Macy's in every other city in America. The local name was gone.

This is worth pausing on: Hecht's didn't close. It became something else, which is in some ways stranger than closing. The building is still there. The escalators run. The perfume counter is in the same location. But the name printed on the shopping bag changed, and with it the particular relationship the store had with the city that had grown up around it. The merchandise is interchangeable. The history isn't.

6. Wanamaker's

Wanamaker's in Philadelphia was one of the greatest retail buildings in America. The main store on Market Street opened in 1876 and expanded into a twelve-story city block that included a pipe organ -- still the largest pipe organ in the world -- and an indoor bronze eagle that served as the defining meeting place for Philadelphians for most of the twentieth century. "Meet me at the Eagle" was not an unusual thing for a Philadelphian to say. The organ played twice a day. The Christmas light show filled the Grand Court every holiday season.

Wanamaker's became part of a chain, then another chain, then was eventually acquired by Lord & Taylor, and then the Wanamaker name disappeared entirely in the mid-1990s. The building is still there and is now a Macy's. The eagle is still in the Grand Court. The organ still plays. But Wanamaker's is gone, and its absence left a word-shaped hole in the way Philadelphians talked about meeting each other downtown.

7. G. Fox & Co.

G. Fox was the Connecticut department store, full stop. Its flagship in downtown Hartford was eleven stories of retail that had served the state since the 1840s. The company was owned by the Fox family until the 1960s, went through several acquisitions, and was eventually converted to a Macy's in 1993. The building still stands. The state has never had another retailer that carried the same weight.

8. Gimbels

Gimbels was Macy's great rival in New York and ran a national chain through cities including Pittsburgh, Philadelphia, and Milwaukee. The competition between Gimbels and Macy's was real and public enough that it became a plot point in Miracle on 34th Street in 1947. Gimbels closed completely in 1987, decades before most of the chains on this list, which puts it in a slightly different category -- it didn't survive to be eaten by Walmart or the internet. It failed on its own terms first.

The Macy's Thanksgiving parade once featured a Gimbels float. That's how embedded these stores were in the culture.

9. Richway

Richway was a Southeast discount chain, primarily Florida and Georgia, that closed in 1991 when its parent company shifted the stores to the Target brand. If you were from Atlanta or central Florida in the 1970s or 1980s, Richway was the weekend trip. The conversion to Target wasn't a funeral -- Target was a better store in most measurable ways -- but the name change erased something local in exchange for something national, and the trade-off is the kind that only shows up years later.

10. Service Merchandise

Service Merchandise was a different kind of department store: a jewelry-and-gifts anchor that ran through the South and Midwest from the late 1950s until 2002. The business model was unusual. The goods were displayed on the floor, but you filled out a slip and waited for your purchase to come out of a warehouse in the back. The system kept shrinkage low and the experience distinctive. Kids went there for Christmas presents. Couples went there for engagement rings and wedding china.

It closed all 230 stores in 2002. The slip-and-warehouse model had never fully modernized, and the jewelry chains that offered a more familiar browsing experience had taken the market. Nothing about the replacement was worse, exactly. The experience was just less personal. More like every other jewelry store. Less like the store you'd been going to since you were eight.


What doesn't need to come back

The parking lot was half a mile from the entrance and unshaded in August. The return policy varied by department and the rules were posted in small print on the back of a receipt you'd already lost. The sales floor could be understaffed for no apparent reason and overstaffed the week before Christmas in ways that made navigating the aisles genuinely difficult. The lunch counter was usually fine and occasionally terrible.

And the homogenization that replaced regional department stores with national ones came from somewhere: national chains genuinely did offer more consistent selection, better pricing, and more reliable inventory. The Macy's in Hartford has more merchandise than G. Fox did. The Target in Atlanta is a better store, by most functional measures, than Richway was.

What's worth noting is not that the old stores were better. Most of them weren't, by any measurable standard. What's worth noting is that regional retail gave cities and towns a character of their own, and the national consolidation of retail eliminated that character in exchange for efficiency. You can debate whether that was the right trade. You can't debate that the trade happened, and that it ran in one direction.

What's gone is the local, not the functional. The Eagle at Wanamaker's. The organ at noon. The layout you knew before you were twelve. The name on the bag that meant the city you grew up in, not every city at once.

Which store do you remember most? What did you go there for? Share yours in the comments -- we love these stories.

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